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Model Citizen This
is a look into the antique studio, where figures are made in 3d ... in real life. Making
a sculpture is not so difficult as it can seem, what maybe result difficult is
the time that lasts the process of creation, to finish up the figure. There are
diferent materials to elaborate figures in 3d (There are two ways: sculpting and
modeling) as the epoxic clay and the resin clay that must be baked finally if
is wished to get solid, also exists other type of clay that toughens instantly
and that it can be manipulated after have toughened with the water. Since I'm
not an sculptor (or I'm not a very good sculptor), I have specialized me in the
modeling clay that it is more flexible than the sculpture (and therefore easier). So
let's take a look into the laboratory to see how a figure "gets alive":
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First is accomplished a sketch of the piece, you have to
visualize the figure in several angles to form of having an image in 3d virtual
within the mind. These sketches will serve also as reference to accomplish details
and to make annotations of things that they may not have been considered when
already it is being accomplishing the piece. It
is also important to considerate that if we wish a better match between our figure
and the real model, we must take care about the details, making portraits
of the model by parts such as face, eyes, nose, mouth, hair, hands, foots,
arms, legs, torso, clothes, details on clothes, extra details will make our
figure almost real. |
Following to this, we use an insole with the measure
that will have our figure (height) in the one which we build with copper wire
what will be the form of the model (skeleton). It can be used also aluminium wire
that is more light than that the copper and resists well the weight of the clay
until dries, but since is more malleable is easiest to get fractured and therefore
I do not recommend it. The wire must be well attached, it can be used wire of
steel and aluminium alloy calibre .20 (as if it would be thread) to hold the structure
and the parts added. |  |
 | Then
we add the clay in layers envolving the wire structure. This is the most recomendable
way because the clay delays drying, and we can not put a new layer of clay over
another before it dry completly, because this cause that our piece remain with
internal fractures. The layers also lets you see how the figure will look finally
when it gets finished or if we should put a muscle or extra detail. |
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we progress, it is necessary to sanding the piece (thoroughly dries and toughened).
When we put details as clothes, we need to make the figure thoroughly strips and
then to add the wrinkles, plaits and seams of its gown, also we need to draw these
details in the body of the figure to have an exact sense of the detail. |
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| Finally,
once it has been sanded perfectly the figure (if it is a robot or possesses mechanical
pieces we will need to use a mototool or something like that), begins the process
of bringing it to "life" by painting it. First we apply a uniform layer
of the same color that it will be the basecolor ... is generally white always
(furthermore that this color let to appreciate all the perfections and blemishes
that we could have in the bottom line) though in occasions can be black or another
color according to the "skin" of the original. |
 | Remember,
as the figure is bigger, the detail increases and that will make it easier sculpting.
Standard sizes more common are 9", 12" y 18" (a real gigant size)
that commonly we found on figures comming from enterprises like McFarlane Toys,
also Randy Bowen and so many other scupltors use it. I recommend to you to see
the sculptures section again ... maybe you try to guess how were made some of
the other figures, and you can appreciate better the bottom line of the process
of the figure that I show you here. | |